Ivor Markman
Apple Express
GRAND OLD LADY: The narrow-gauge Apple Express puffs merrily across a bridge in the Gamtoos Valley.
By Ivor Markman
Huge puffs of smoke billowed up into the blue sky as the hiss of pressurized steam played havoc with the ears of those standing too close to the old steam engine as the narrow-gauge Avontuur Adventurer puffed slowly out of the terminal at Humewood Station.
Aboard the Apple Express crew members readied themselves to ensure the international group of railway enthusiasts would feel welcome and enjoy the adventure.
Over the next three days the visitors were treated like royalty and the red carpet was literally rolled out for their departure.
As the trip was primarily billed as a photographic trip, frequent stops were made for photographers to get the “perfect” shots.
But not all the stops were called for by photographers.
Fires are always a danger with steam travel, and 15 minutes after leaving Humewood station, the train trundled back to put out a veld fire caused by flying sparks.
BOILER FIRE: The fireman throws a shovelful of coal into the firebox to build up sufficient steam to drive the Avontuur Adventurer.
PIPED ABOARD: At Humewood Station guests were treated to some stirring Highland bagpipe music before boarding for their three-day trip to Avontuur.
AVONTUUR ADVENTURER: As the Apple Express departs Port Elizabeth it climbs a steep incline before spreading its wings on the flat and open land.
FAMOUS BRIDGE: The Apple Express crosses the 610 mm (2 foot) gauge Van Stadens River bridge. The river flows 78 metres (255 feet) below.
One incident illustrated the volunteers’ determination to ensure that the tourists got their perfect shots.
At Van Stadens gorge everyone alighted from the train.
They walked across the famous bridge and positioned themselves on the opposite side, ready for the famous “train-on-the-bridge” shot.
The signal was given for the train to cross, when suddenly, like a pesky mosquito, a helicopter buzzed overhead and circled around and around the train, completely ruining the shot for those who were recording audio footage.
The hand signals that were given to the helicopter pilot to move away were not of the type that one would normally see on a railway bridge and there was much under-the-breath muttering as disgruntled photographers returned to their carriages and the helicopter disappeared behind the hills.
But sensing that a bit of corrective PR action was called for, the train crew repeated the crossing.
There were smiles of approval as the visitors once again set up their equipment.
COMPOSITE CUTTING: The train negotiates the cuttings through the orange composite rock cliffs alongside the Gamtoos River.
CULTURAL CENTRE: The old lady departs from the Humansdorp Cultural Centre after passengers were entertained by a group of Khoisan dancers.
GOLDEN MOMENT: The Avontuur Adventurer chugs along the gleaming and winding railway tracks through the orchard-laden Langkloof valley.
GRAMOPHONE MUSIC: When the train stopped at the Heights siding they were treated to the sounds of some old gramophone music. They were also treated to cups of the region's famous Honeybush health tea.
GREEN CUTTING: The Apple Express chugs through the thick bush near Billson siding west of Humansdorp.
The train crossed the bridge again, and, much to the delight of the videographers, this time without helicopters.
All along the route the train stopped and a three toot signal meant photographers should run past and position themselves for the next shot, said coach controller Peter Burton.
There was a great scramble for camera positions when the signal was heard at the various pre-planned positions.
The train first backed up and then came charging along, all the while puffing out great big clouds of black and grey smoke interspersed with spurts of angry white steam.
The traditional mid-morning and mid-afternoon tea breaks were imaginatively executed, and at the appropriate times a table was brought out with a variety of delicious home-made biscuits and cakes as one of the volunteers set up a wind-up gramophone record player.
"Brilliant! First class! Little events, just like having this tea party in this sort of environment is what makes a trip like this different," said Southampton visitor Dave Foot.
"It’s very well organised, but in a rustic way. There's these guys checking out tables and a little trolley with sandwiches in the middle of nowhere. I just love it," said Errol Ashwell from Pretoria.
The excitement was still not over, for as the train backed off the far end of the bridge, the calm was shattered by a panic-stricken scream from the train manager.
"Whokaai, whokaai, whokaai," (stop, stop, stop!) squawked the frantic walkie-talkie plea, eventually followed by a sigh of relief as the train lurched to a halt.
A reporter, who shall remain nameless, had attempted to cross the tracks in her four-wheel-drive vehicle.
Unfortunately her vehicle became lodged in between the rails and stuck fast as glue.
The frantic calls were from the train manager, Willie Ferreira, who was watching as the train edged backwards, closer and closer to the vehicle.
The reporter turned white as a sheet and froze stiff as she watched the approaching coaches.But luck was on her side that day, for the train stopped inches from the car.
"The guard van was so close to her car that afterwards I couldn’t squeeze between the two," said Ferreira.
"The poor woman’s eyes were as big as saucers."
COOL RIDE: The engine driver and fireman sit on their swing chairs next to the cab to get away from the stifling heat of the firebox.
LIGHT MAINTENANCE: Engine crew inspect the train's lamp shortly after reaching Assegaaibos station.
THIRSTY LADY: Crew members watch as thousands of litres of water are oured into the train's water tank.
All along the 283km route local communities, both rich and poor rushed out smiling and dancing to greet their old friend.
"The train is very old fashioned and romantic. Such a pretty . . . narrow-gauge does not exist in Japan. Nothing like this. Our tracks are about two or three kilometres," said Shigehiko Nakajima of Japan.
The locomotive definitely did not go past unnoticed.
Youngsters rushed out and, unused to the sounds, nearly fell over when the whistle blew unexpectedly.
At all the stops, the tourists were welcomed with open arms.
At some stations there were speeches, at others there were songs and cheers.
At Heights station indigenous honeybush tea was poured while in Patensie the visitors were taken for a tour of the orange packing shed.
After three days, when the time came for the rail buffs to depart, it was like watching lovers part.
The enthusiasts stepped back for one last longing look and took one more picture, hoping to capture that elusive moment that brought them to their lifelong love.
Parting was such sweet sorrow.
LOVING IT: Photographers doing what hey love best as the Apple Express thunders through a pass on the way to Avontuur.
To the tourists delight, the scratchy sounds of Glen Miller's In the mood, flowed from the old wind-up gramophone.
David de Lange and the Welgens orchestra followed with Skeeloog Daisy.
It would have come as no surprise had Apple Express gramophone dee-jay, Bruce Strang, played Sentimental Journey.
"What would the world be like without music. We like it," said railway enthusiast David Payling from Wales.
As the train weaved through the tight cuttings of the Gamtoos Valley, the wheels rubbed against the rails and between nostalgic squeals it sang out the nostalgic lullaby of steam travel: a clickety-clack, a pitter-pat, a clickety-clack, a pitter-pat, the age old chorus of railway travel.
It was as if the oldest NG15 class Kalahari locomotive, NG17, was celebrating its return from retirement.
"I’m not too old, I’m not too old, I’m not too old," it seemed to puff.
Fraser Howell, a retired engineer form Knysna said "The loco seems to be in good condition, the rolling stock seems very well presented and the whole operation seems to be run in a very fine way."
There were plenty of friends along the way.
FRIENDLY GREETING: A youngster waves and gives the "thumbs up" as the Apple Express chugs through Kruisfontein township.
DAY'S END: Weary photographers trudge back to the Apple Express carriages near the end of their excursion up the Langkloof valley.
STEEL, STEAM AND GREASE: In the end, this is what its all about - the powerful mix of steel, steam, sweat and grease.
